In the often crowded vacation world of the Bay Area Beaches, it’s arduous finding an authentic Italian restaurant, you know, like the one you loved in NYC’s Little Italy, downtown Chicago, or even on a trip to Italy. The question is: Does that kind of eatery exist in Florida? And the answer is yes, right here on St. Pete Beach.
When I moved to St. Petersburg from Long Island, New York there were a few places with palatable Italian cuisine. But just a handful. I wanted an Italian eatery just like back home. There was Gennaro’s in Pass-a-Grille, Armani’s and Donatello in Tampa, and a handful of others, but few worth the fuel, and most were expensive.
Lucky for us, times have changed. If it’s Italian you’re craving, there’s no better place to satisfy those guilty pleasures than the captivating cluster of Italian eateries located on Blind Pass Road in St. Pete Beach. In fact, this little area’s becoming so well known for its Italian specialties that locals are beginning to call it “Little Italy” and justifiably so.
My point of reference for reviewing this type of cuisine has everything to do with the year I lived in Rome, Italy. I ardently searched out the best trattorias and ristorantes my modest budget would allow. I also spent five years fixing menus for Italian restaurants in South Beach and Coral Gables, so, I feel I had enough experience to decide if there is a “Little Italy” here on St. Pete Beach.
While I have long been an advocate of glorious Northern Italian cuisine, having traveled a good deal in southern Italy I have never been able to say that one style was better than another. They are all glorious, done properly, of course. It’s like choosing between apples and oranges. All good, but different. Having taken the tour of this suggested row of restaurants that feature mostly southern Italian cuisine, I have come to the conclusion that St. Pete Beach can brag about its’ superlative Italian cuisine, as good as in any major city.
Who knows the secret of what makes a great pizza? I think you will agree that there is nothing quite like the taste of fresh baked tomatoes, fresh “A-grade” mozzarella and crust crisped to perfection. I can still taste the amazing flavors of the fresh baked Pizza Margarita I was served at the shop most famous for its pies in Naples, Italy. They were piping hot, out of the brick oven, instantly tantalizing your taste buds. There are an impressive number of brick ovens on Gulf Boulevard and Blind Pass Road in St. Pete Beach.
My first stop on the beach was an eatery named Tuttorosso, whose menu subhead is “Pizzeria Napoletana”. While “Tuttorosso” has been defined in many ways by Italians, it basically means a meaty, red, crushed tomato sauce with delectable flavor and perfect definition. Perhaps, I surmise, that’s why the Naples born owners of this hidden gem were so pleased with their sauce that they decided to name it after their sauce. There are cold antipastos available on most restaurant menus, but none I’ve found quite as scrumptious as Tuttorosso’s meat version, the Antipasto Italiano. The presentation is simply divine, but the quality and flavor of the choice ingredients is just as outstanding as the appearance. Served over very fresh greens with balsamic dressing are paper-thin slices of prosciutto, Genoa salami, mortadella, freshly roasted and charred sweet red bell peppers, roasted mushrooms, garlic, onions, and more. Spectacular ordered with a lovely Chianti for a mere $6.50 per glass. Fresh made garlic “knots” are an extra treat.
But then that’s not how real Italians eat. Typically, the would add a pasta course, a main fish and/or serving of meat or poultry, a salad (that does not include the antipasto!) and an alluring dessert such as foghatelle, a shell shaped pastry with orange peel and a sweet ricotta filling or Zeppole, two Italian style donuts coverd with Nutella and sugar. All available at Tuttorosso’s, and all excellent.
Pizza can be ordered by the whole pie or by the slice. I opted for a piece of the veggie pie and one of the meat pie. It had been awhile since I had friarielli, also know as broccoli rabe, so I ordered a side. Other offerings include a Spaghetti Bolognese and Terracina (with zucchini, spinach, pine nuts, tomatoes, garlic and oil.
The ambience is casual, there is a cozy bar with a friendly bartender. Honestly, eating at Tuttorosso’s, is a step back to the tradition of which the Italians are so very proud.
Tuttorosso is located at 7863 Blind Pass Road, St. Pete Beach 33706. 727-800-9864.
Another “Little Italy” favorite, which stays open until 4 every morning is Vito & Michaels Gourmet Pizza and Pasta, located next to a convenience store in a small strip center across from Winn Dixie. Pizza is king here and for the many years I’ve been patronizing this casual place I’ve never had a mediocre meal.
Pan pizza crust is lightly marinated in olive oil and baked in old-fashioned pizza pans. Fried cheese ravioli and jumbo mussels are favorites appetizers, but the owners add in a few tastes of Americana with their chicken wings, subs and some other offerings.
Be adventurous. Try the Chicken and Shrimp Francaper, a chicken breast with shrimp, mushrooms, all sautéed in a white caper sauce over fettuccine. For dessert there’s a good selection of gelato, cheesecake, and even a chocolate chip cannoli, but helping sizes are generous and you have to plan ahead to save room. Great place to bring the kids as service is quick, efficient and very friendly. Vito & Michael’s Gourmet Pizzeria is located at 7704 Blind Pass Road, St. Pete Beach 33706, 727-360-3658
Next door to the north is another winner, Verducci’s Pizzeria & Trattoria. They proclaim to serve Cuciniamo con Amore, which translates to mean “Cooking with Love.” Certainly, “love” is the key word here.
There are few trattoria’s anywhere as intimate yet as casually elegant as Verducci. Dinner specials vary daily. and it is always worth the adventure to sample something as enchanting as their fresh Grouper Livornese. Spaghetti Alloscoglio is another seafood winner with shrimp, clams and mussels in a delicate cherry tomato sauce. And, of course, there are the fan favorites of incredibly delicious lasagna made with a perfect Bolognese and a fresh pasta like gnocchi done Sorrentina style, with basil and their fresh made mozzarella.
Their popular early dinner specials feature your choice of 10 meals at $10, for seating from 4 – 5:45 PM, with several delicious options and healthy portion sizes.
There’s also an “Happy Hour” wine deal adding 2 for one house wines for just $5 per glass until 7 pm.
A “La Pizza” section of their menu celebrates eight different styles with some unusual toppings that you won’t find anywhere else such as goat cheese, speck, and Kalamata olives.
Treat yourself to authentic Italian at a restaurant that never ceases to surprise and impress. Verducci’s Pizzeria & Trattoria is located at 7736 Blind Pass Rd., St. Pete Beach 727-363-7900
Verducci’s Italian Fresh Market opened this summer, just across 78th Ave. to the north of the restaurant. Slightly smaller than the frenetic 22nd Street Mazzaro’s Market, it is perfectly sized to pick up a ready cooked meal, fresh meats and poultry, and a variety of prepared entrees that are not only delicious, but different. Veal and peppers are to live for. They offer a slim but generously prepared Sicilian steak that is pounded, breaded and fried to savory, tender perfection. I tried this hot as well as cold. Both ways were enjoyable. Lunch specials are generally delicious and a bargain.
Need ingredients to complete that perfect meal? There’s fresh baguettes, fresh pastas and a Bolognese lasagna that would make angels sing. If you’re up for just looking and hanging out there’s a cozy bar with an interesting selection of wines-by-the glass. Down the ramp behind the bar is an entire room full of Italian wines, from inexpensive to extravagant.
I couldn’t resist the impressive variety of extra virgin olive oils. I choose two, one with a lovely porcini flavor. I drizzled it over freshly cooked pasta, added a side of crispy garlic bread, and a side of Friarelli, (broccoli rabe) which I could eat by the plateful. And I did. Verducci’s Market is located at 7800 Blind Pass Road, St. Pete Beach 727-201-9740.
Is there a “Little Italy” on St. Pete Beach? I vote “yes” without a doubt. – Joyce LaFray