Dining with Joyce LaFray
Sundial Photos by Kathleen Finnerty
In the last two years Downtown St. Petersburg has witnessed a boom like never before. Restaurants & breweries are inundating downtown and Fourth Street North, charming visitors from the four corners of the earth. It’s a bustling “Restaurant Row” along scenic Beach Drive overlooking the Bay, yet some of the finest are located at the new Sundial complex (once called “Baywalk”) masterminded by entrepreneur Bill Edwards.
Sea Salt
The most lavish of the new eateries is 12,000 square feet with 300 indoor-outdoor seats for those seeking an adventure in dining. Fresh finfish and shellfish are the focus here, yet there are good choices for carnivores and vegetarians as well. The owner, Fabrizio Aieli, gets an “A” for affable. Originally from the Adriatic coast of Venice, Italy, he and his Slovakian wife Ingrid began their adventure by first vacationing in Naples, Florida for a few years. They were so enthralled with the climate that they decided to buy a house, open a gelateria, then launch Sea Salt, which was an immediate success. In fact, Esquire magazine named it one of the nation’s best new restaurants, noted for “Venetian World Cuisine.” Witnessing the rapid growth of our downtown restaurant scene, Fabrizio and Ingrid expanded Sea Salt to downtown St. Petersburg in February 2015.
I was fortunate to dine at the Naples restaurant when it first opened, and was instantly impressed with the contemporary specialties which featured artisanal and locally sourced ingredients. Fish was perfectly grilled, pasta was as sophisticated as at any Venetian restaurant, and beef entrees were simply sumptuous. Having lived in Rome, Italy for a year, I appreciated the authenticity of the cuisine.
One of the most interesting aspects is Chef Fabrizio’s culinary philosophy: when the proper salts are utilized, they not only heighten enjoyment, but add healthful qualities. History relates how salt was highly prized in ancient times, especially by the Phoenicians. The exchange rate, in fact, was said to be equal to gold. Likewise, Fabrizio’s selection is over the top, with an assortment of bedazzling salts, like Murray River Pink from Australia, Mayan Sun from El Salvador and Pyramid from Bali.The oyster selection is impressive. It claims 80 feet of one side of a most spacious bar, containing at least two dozen of the best varieties anywhere. Finfish is purchased locally, but also shipped from Europe and carefully inspected before being prepared — the mark of a true Chef. To complement the cuisine is an impressive selection of 7000 plus wines housed in a 20-foot-tall wine tower.
Yet, not only is Fabrizio good at running restaurants, but he’s also a cookbook author, acclaimed enough that Coleman Andrews, a noted food writer and editorial director of TheDailyMeal.com, wrote the forward to this remarkable 232 page full-color cookbook, a bargain at $35. Andrews sings the praises of Fabrizio, verifying that he and his restaurants are certainly worth their salt. If the weather’s good, choose to dine alfresco, at the huge comfy bar, or at one of many comfortable indoor tables. Entrees range from the high 20s to 50s, but if you’re watching your wallet, grab a seat at the bar and order a few of the innovative appetizers. Happy Hour is not to be missed. Drink prices are a bargain.
Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse
Another popular Happy Hour is just across the way at Ruth’s Chris, a chain made famous by the legendary Ruth Fertel, a passionate and tenacious entrepreneur who expanded the restaurant from one location to a national success. If you plan on stopping by for a drink after work, get there early and enjoy the Happy Hour specials. The comfy four-sided bar is always packed.
The opening of this restaurant was special for me since I was fortunate to have known Ruth Fertel, the legendary founder, for a number of years. I first met Ruth as a guest on my “Eat It!” food talk show on WQYK radio in St. Petersburg. Steaks in tow, she and executive chef decided to cook their steaks “on-air.” The intense heat generated by cooking the steaks set off the station’s massive alarm system. That was Ruth, always making a notable entrance. Besides quality steaks Ruth loved her vodka.
We had many interesting conversations about food and wine and what she expected from her employees, basically “perfection”. After the show she sent me a personally
engraved director’s chair in appreciation for having her as a guest on the show. Her attention to detail was staggering. On a recent visit, I found that the steak house has only improved. For appetizers, my guest and I shared the veal osso buco ravioli, the broiled mushrooms with jumbo lump crab and Ruth’s Chop Salad with lemon basil dressing. Yum! For our main course the porterhouse for two had the flavor of a great strip steak and the melt-in-mouth tenderness of a filet. For dessert we ordered a luscious bread pudding with whisky sauce and a perfect Crème Brulee. Service was perfect.
Gourmet Locale Market
On both the first and second level of Sundial is another welcome addition to the St. Petersburg food scene. Locale, a 20,000 square foot, two-story marketplace/restaurant is the brainchild of James Beard Award-winning Chef Michael Mina and celebrated Chef Don Pintabona. The talented duo present a world-class market, with 11 separate kitchens, the design somewhat similar to Eataly, New York City’s famous market. The central theme revolves around a variety of cuisine at the kitchens, each with their own sous chefs, offering monthly seasonal menus. Choices include take-out or eat-in at tables downstairs, a cozy wine-beer bar upstairs, or the patios downstairs and overlooking the Sundial courtyard.
There’s aged prime beef, farm-to-table organic produce and meats, fresh caught fish such as cobia, snapper and grouper, and an excellent organic produce area. Cheeses and preserved meats in the upstairs Charcuterie kitchen are some of the best you’ll ever taste. There’s also a FarmTable Kitchen (call ahead) where guests can experience the best of the local farms and purveyors for a pricey but worthy multi-course meal.Kitchens carry about five selections containing a few sides, most under $15 and menus change often. There’s sushi, sashimi, and a potpourri of entrees to satisfy even the most persnickety of patrons.
Add on fresh cut flowers, a takeout area where sandwiches and salads are made to order, shelves lined with gourmet olive oils and balsamics, fresh baked breads, and a world renowned chocolatier station manned by William Dean himself and there you have it; the recipe for success!Life could not get much better than all of this. At the new Sundial.
I think you’ll agree.
Story by Joyce LaFray