If you’re searching for one of the best downtown restaurants, you need go no further than The Mill, a relatively new invention by Ted Dorsey, a talented chef who created many a wave as the former chef at Castile, located at the swank Hotel Zamora on St. Pete Beach.
The Mill, once a well-thought-of pizza parlor, is now a cozy upscale retreat designed to create an inviting, relaxed and original ambience…and it does.
Even the lavatories are a hoot. A vintage tub from the early 1900s, is cleverly fashioned into a funky sink. The men’s has its own style and the bar area is as comfortable as it gets, a great place for singles to meet, greet and experience a great meal.
Though considered expensive by some, there is no doubt in my mind that you get what you pay for And what you get is mighty good. I visited three times for this review and not once was I disappointed. No doubt, it’s a boom, it’s a bang and as Chef Emeril Lagasse would say, it’s a slam-dunk bam!
The restaurant, with an open kitchen, offers superior food specializing in a commitment to local sources and fresh ingredients. The menu is a perfect size, but the outstanding offerings are so varied and unique it makes it difficult to choose. The cuisine is as sophisticated as any in metropolitan areas like New York, Miami or LA.
‘First Plates’ which we typically call appetizers are in good portion and include something for every palate. Southern Fried Frog Legs, which I was told are from Georgia and not the Everglades as one might guess– are prepared with a chili brown butter, compressed tomatoes, then served with a parsley gremolata and buttermilk aioli. The legs were plump and juicy as any I’ve every tasted, and I’ve eaten many. The taste? The meat is like chicken, but even more juicy and easily as delicious.
On one visit my guest was reticent about trying the frog legs, but she did and loved them! She was also pleased with the blue crab croquettes served with a fresh cilantro remoulade and a jalapeno ginger marinade. The crab is top quality and there is a splashing of lemon, too much for some, but I thought the zing was the crowning touch.
If you prefer just to graze, The Mill has an interesting choice of cheeses and charcuterie. There’s an ever-changing selection of specialty cheeses called “artisan” and the house charcuterie is beautifully presented with local honeycomb, baby zucchini pickles, foie gras, duck bacon, white anchovies — you get the picture! Order a choice of three, five or seven and a glass of wine or craft beer, and there you have a perfect meal for sharing.
I must caution that the menu does change frequently and there is a potpourri of specials, but to me that is the sign of a great restaurant i.e., a chef that is never satisfied with a mundane menu that never changes.
We sample three of the four salads offered, each one ample for two sharers. My favorite is the Brussel Salad, a potpourri of delights with Brussel leaves, grilled radicchio, snap peas, heirloom tomatoes oven-dried and pickled bell peppers lightly sauced in a burnt scallion vinaigrette. A close second is the Roast Beet Panzanella made with both red and golden beets, a house style burrata which is like an upscale mozzarella, creamy and ethereal. An unusual dressing is the roasted horseradish vinaigrette. Perfection!
After a few dishes you may be full, but you must continue with the “Second Plates”. Our favorites, on three occasions are the Braised Rabbit & Black currants (be adventurous, you won’t regret it!), Smoke Braised Boar Ribs, Diver Scallops and Meatloaf Wellington, all generously sized. If I had to describe each and every one of these delights, it would take at least another page.
Yet I must mention the amazing Wellington, prepared with quality ground meats, Taleggio cheese, a bourbon yam mash, braised seasonal greens and a lovely smoked mushroom gravy. This dish will easy serve two, though my guest is so impressed that it is difficult to coax him to share with us. After a little arm twisting we each got a few bites.
Quench your thirst with a good list of wines by the glass, or perhaps one of the original cocktails including The Mill’s original Daiquiri made with Crème de Cacao, “Mill Barrel” Rum and lime juice, a bit off Hemingway’s favorite, but a unique creation. There’s also a good list of specialty drafts, including a “Gwen Stefani” infused with Sailor Jerry, Byrrh and Cappelletti.
For finishers try the deconstructed apple pie or chocolate dessert; it appears all desserts are house made. The tea service is lovely with a good choice of unique blends.
Servers are efficient, but even better, they’re fun and interesting. Obviously, they’ve had a good training session since they could easily answer our multitudinous questions about the food and drink. So, if you decide to go, don’t be shy about asking about the offerings. Staffers will be delighted to expand on the unusual but oh-so exciting menu by the talented Chef.The Mill Restaurant is located at 200 Central Avenue, St. Petersburg, FL 33701 727-317-3930 info@themilldtsp.com