A Real “Gem” on Treasure Island
In a city named Treasure Island, one might expect to still find a few gems. That was the case when we chose a cozy, yet upscale restaurant named The Pearl, a polished prize amongst the ubiquitous restaurants peppering the Gulf Beaches. I’d visited the restaurant, located in a shopping center downtown in Treasure Island several years ago. I remember the experience as being a very good one, but not nearly as remarkable as I found it on my latest visit.
Talented chef-owner, Karim Chiadimi, is a master of sauces. His years working as a chef are evident in the variety and quality of the dishes he presents at this cozy eatery by the Gulf. How would I characterize his cuisine? I’d characterize it as “Mediterranean with French accents” and might add “a touch of the Continental”.
A superb Lamb Tagine, slowly cooked in herbs and spices, is a hands down winner. Perhaps having everything to do with the fact that Karim’s heritage is Moroccan, though he also studied and worked in Switzerland, at Epcot in Disney and at other local restaurants.
We begin the meal sharing several appetizers. A “Tuna Martini” consists of fresh chunks of Ahi tuna marinated in a flavorsome potion of vodka and spice, served with seasoned seaweed, touches of caviar and wasabi, the spicy Japanese horseradish. Yum.
After imbibing in a luscious “off-the-menu” sushi creation, we share an appetizer comprised of a variety of delicious Mediterranean spreads. Tiny stuffed grape leaves and pita made for a lovely finish.
Baked Prince Edward Island Mussels are drenched in a steamy white wine broth, perfected with garlic and lime juice, a harbinger of more delights to follow.
I decide to order Lamb Tagine, but my choice is swiftly snatched by another guest who promised that he would give me a good taste of his since this was his favorite. “No wonder the guest was not eager to share,” I think, “this is simply one of the best shanks ever!” Moist, falling-off-the-bone with a recipe worth begging for. I decide on Veal Tournedos. My goodness, this was is good as (if not better) than the coveted shanks,. The tender medallions were sauced with a light, yet creamy sauce, bordering on ethereal.
Another enjoyable entrée is the Seafood Crepe stuffed with large shrimp, sea scallops, fresh crab and finfish. A tasty champagne- lobster sauce envelopes the seafood mix, all tucked into light crepes flawlessly prepared. A pleasant step back in time to the 50’s when crepes were all the rage!
The Pearl offers something for everyone, carnivores as well as seafood lovers. Beef short ribs are well done, braised in a tangy barbecue sauce laced with the vibrant and velvety flavors of a nice Cabernet.
Dessert portions are large and enough for two to share. Profiteroles with fresh berries are drizzled with a delectable berry sauce, with fluffy peaks of freshly whipped cream. My favorite, a light white cake is made with a very popular Italian liqueur called Limoncello. I couldn’t help but remember my last visit to the island of Capri as a student, where one too many shots of Limoncello resulted in a rather treacherous swim into their famous Blue Grotto.
Service is friendly, efficient and best of all, fun! The Pearl, a special treasure near the sparkling Gulf of Mexico. The Pearl is located at 163 107th Ave., Treasure Island 33706. 727-360-9151. ThePearlFineDining.com Call for times open. (The Pearl is opened for dining beginning at 4 p.m. Early Birders can save a bundle by choosing from five specials (4- 5:45 p.m.) which often feature some of the same menu items. Five dollar house martinis are also a bargain).
Maritana Grille for Spectacular Seafood
If you’re adventurous and seeking a restaurant that serves the very best seafood, that has amazing ambience, superb service and locally sourced ingredients, you need look no further than the popular Maritana Grille at the Loew’s Don CeSar Resort aka “The Pink Palace.”
For sure, the most frequent question I am asked by vacationers to the Gulf beaches is, “Where is the best seafood on the beach?” There are several eateries that answer to that question, but one of my favorites is the lovely Maritana Grille at the Don CeSar. The chefs’ selection of fresh finfish and shellfish is seldom matched by others. It is not an inexpensive venue, but one that will be memorable for years to come.
The “Don’s” executive chef de cuisine, Kenny Hunnsberger (picture at right), along with new dining room Chef Jose Cuarta III (pictured at left) is the best in the business. Hunnsberger’s been an award- winner in
Tampa Bay for years, his most impressive venture before coming to the beach was Oystercatcher’s at the Hyatt in Tampa. New American cuisine is the main focus. Their quest for local sourcing, fearless presentations and quality ingredients is obviously their recipe for success.
Some may see Maritana as a “special occasion” place. I don’t. Though prices are steep compared to many area restaurants, the old adage, “you get what you pay for” plays here. Rather than serving frozen tilapia, or other tasteless imports served by other restaurants (proclaiming to be the “Best of the Bay”), Maritana crafts theirs to meticulously enhance already mind-boggling flavors.
The entrance near the bustling lobby bar is unassuming, but once inside the well-appointed dining area, the atmosphere is warm and welcoming. 1,500 gallons of salt-water aquariums filled with tropical fish create a pleasant, appealing, and yes, very romantic ambience.
What to order? That will be your most difficult choice. Give it a start with one of their Florida style drinks, like the Pink Pearl, a dazzling vodka-Chambord-champagne drink flavored with fresh raspberries.
The wine list is exceptional, whether by the glass, like the smooth and velvety pinot noir Lyric by Etude, or by the bottle. Jeff DeCristofaro, the affable on premise certified sommelier is there to help, and pleased to offer pairing suggestions. It’s not surprising that the restaurant has been awarded the coveted DiRoNa award for their fine wines.
Warning. Do not spend too much time chomping down on the potpourri of luscious breads, especially the onion skinny lavish and roasted red pepper hummus. You want a good appetite to accompany your meal.
Though diverse, the menu is simple and contains something for every palate.
A Wahoo appetizer is served with superb citrus soy dressing. The flaky white fish, already delicious when simply prepared is transported to a new level of deliciousness. A salad of skinny sliced heirloom tomatoes and organic yellow and red beets is perfectly executed, tantalizing our taste buds for the feast to follow. From the “global” section, we devour a marvelous Chilean Sea Bass with rice grits and lemon verbena.
From the “local” section, a handsomely plated Cobia is finished with fresh crab, broccolini and fennel all prepared with a saffron fumet, a perfectly reduced fish broth. From “small farms” there’s an excitement of choices; Farm chicken, Lake Meadow natural duck, Anderson ranch rack of lamb and Johnson Farms grass fed beef. If you’re yearning for a round of caviar, there’s Kaluga, Siberian Sturgeon and the much prized Russian Osetra.
We were pleased to see an Artisanal cheese course which consisted of St. Andre, Pecorino Romano and other crafted cheeses, plated with Marcona Almonds, a feast for the mind as well as the soul.
Desserts vary and are all made in house by the pastry chef, but you do not want to leave without tasting their peanut butter chocolate covered “bomb,” which once pierced by the tines of your fork becomes a dish which any chocoholic would die for.
The Maritana Grille is located at the Loew’s Don CeSar Resort & Spa3499 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach. 727-360-1881. https://www.loewshotels.com/don-cesar/dining/restaurant
Da Sesto Italian “Ristorante” & Vino for Authentic Italian Cuisine
How does one judge the quality of an Italian restaurant? Some critics say it’s all in the sauce, others say it’s the quality of the bread and olive oil, while others say you can tell by the meatballs alone. Whatever the criteria, having lived in Italy, I can attest to the fact that DaSesto Italiano Ristorante & Vino would be judged as one of the best. The authentic ristorante is located in a strip mall in Pinellas Park, just south of Park Street and a short drive from the Gulf Beaches.
Owner Sesto Ramodori hails from the lovely Marche region of Italy where pizzas, fresh seafood, and home-style cooking are de rigeur. This region, relatively unknown to the American tourist, consists of five provinces, including his native Ascoli Piceno. The area is somewhat hilly, with beautiful seaside views, bordered by the Emilia-Romagna and the republic of San Marino to the north, and Tuscany to the northwest.
Local wines are plentiful; perhaps that has something to do with Sesto’s excellent and most reasonable Italian wine selections. Sangiovese Donello Conte Villa Prandone is one of their best choices by the glass or bottle. House wines are an import of the Masciarelli Wine Company and are a bargain. Decor is simple, yet festive, with black tablecloths for dinner. Crispy bread with two olive oil dips, sundried tomato and pesto pine nut, is served to all customers.
Da Sesto is a bargain for lunch, with daily specials and quick, friendly, but efficient service. For dinner, things turn to the romantic and the prices go up, but not much. This ristorante is the perfect venue for that first date or just a cozy couple rendezvous. The menu is all encompassing: custom antipastos, fresh pastas, veal, chicken, steak and plenty of fresh fish and shellfish, just like in Sesto’s Ascoli Piceno.
For appetizers, if you try only one of their extensive offerings do try the Olivo Ascolane, jumbo Queen olives stuffed with a luscious meat medley and cheese mixture, then breaded and fried. What could we say but, magnifico!
From the first forkful, anyone that knows Italian cuisine understands that great sauces are made from scratch. Pappardelle Mama Angela, a house specialty, is lovingly prepared with white cream sauce and capers, fungi, Italian sausage and quality pancetta. My half-size portion, “piccolo pasta,” cost only $9.95 (at lunch) including a fresh salad drizzled with a tasty house balsamic.
La Parmigiana, breaded eggplant with Napolitano tomato sauce, and Arrabbiata with its typically spicy garlic tomato sauce are as authentic as it gets. I asked to substitute angel hair pasta for the fettucine the menu promises. No problem. Ravioli is melt-in-mouth and I was told it is from Tampasta, once known as the Florida Pasta Company, and, incidentally, once owned by Sesto himself.
House specialties such as Pappardelle Amore, pasta in a light tomato sauce with porcini mushrooms and a drizzle of truffle oil, will please the most finicky; veal aficionados will savor the Fagotto di Vitelli, veal stuffed with pancetta, fungi, asiago and sausage, served with angel hair and the house Napolitano sauce.In the seafood section, Gamberoni Michelina comes with large shrimp served in a savory garlic-wine sauce. Cannelloni, one of my favorites since I lived in Rome, is luscious meat-filled rolled pasta. For dessert, there is a good selection of dolce, or sweets, some of which are made in-house.
My only regret is that Da Sesto is not closer to my home in downtown St. Petersburg, yet, worth the trip to Pinellas Park where one can experience a true taste of Italy.
Da Sesto is located at 7199 66th St. N. Pinellas Park. 727.209.2695. DaSesto.com – Call for times open.
