Story by STEVE TRAIMAN
Photos by Bonnie & Steve Traiman
Cruising the lower Mississippi River on an authentic paddle wheeler has long been on our bucket list. In the post-pandemic, we finally made it from July 11 to 22. Flying from Tampa to Memphis, we spent two days in Memphis, staying at the Graceland Guest House and touring Elvis Presley’s Graceland Mansion.
That first night we were picked up by a pink ’58 Cadillac limo to famous Marlowe’s Ribs for the best barbecue in Memphis, with photos of Elvis all around and some veteran waitstaff who knew him personally.
During my Billboard writing years from 1974-80 I made my first trip to Memphis to interview Elvis. I never met a more generous, down-to-earth guy who was a gracious host. The Mansion, which he bought in 1966, has been fully restored with his original furnishings and memorabilia and is a delight to tour.
From the grand entrance living room with his grand piano, through the kitchen where he would go at night for his favorite peanut butter & jelly sandwiches, to the billiard room with its stunning chandelier and pleated fabric ceiling and walls, and the jungle room with his safari memorabilia, it’s a great tour.
The saddest reminder was my contribution to his obituary a few years later in August 1977 when heart disease took his all-too-short life at 42.
The next day (12) we took the city bus tour that went past the extensive St. Jude medical complex and visited the still-operating Sun Studios. It was where owner Sam Phillips discovered Elvis in the early 1950’s and gave him his first break.
It was a habit that whoever was in the studio any day would be part of a recording session. It was Dec. 4, 1956, when the later-named “Million-Dollar Quartet” recorded a historic album–Elvis with Jerry Lee Lewis, Carl Perkins and Johnny Cash!
Aboard the Ship
The next morning (13) we boarded the American Cruise Lines’ American Splendor paddle-wheeler. With five decks and a capacity of 185 passengers, we only had 121 on this trip. Each spacious stateroom had a balcony, where we enjoyed breakfast.
We got a nice rundown about the ship from Engineer Telly Harper. He told us the ship, built in 2016 and renovated earlier this year, is 333 feet long and 53 feet wide with an 8-ft. draft and top speed of 15 mph. It’s powered by two 1750-HP Cat diesel engines, two marine azimuth thrusters, and two bow thrusters. The paddlewheel is just for show, as it turns but has no propulsion! The Mississippi was down 30 to 50 feet so that most landings had steep climbs to the road, with an assist from golf carts for passengers.
The crew headed by Capt. Robert Harrigan, a former Coast Guard officer, included hotel general manager Xander Westwood, cruise director Fernando Duran, guest speaker/historian Jim Schweickart, excursion director Rick Tyson, restaurant manager Kay Smith, and executive chef Angel Mendez.
Nightly entertainment was outstanding. Piano virtuoso Jon England can’t read a note but played every song by ear! Historian Jim Schweickart had an interesting bit of knowledge in every port. Guest entertainers included black humorist Judy Davis from New Orleans who gave us non-stop laughs with her witty bon-mots. Husband-wife team Michael & Jennifer McClain as the Banjocats gave us music with a bluegrass kick. Final night brought in trumpet legend Wendell Brunious and renowned jazz clarinetist Carolyn Fromell for a trip to New Orleans jazz greats’ music.
Vicksburg
We traveled on three American Cruise Lines buses that were with us from Memphis to New Orleans, with the local tour guides very knowledgeable about every city.
Our first stop was Vicksburg on Thursday (14) where a turning-point Civil War battle was fought. The Vicksburg Civil War Museum gave equal space to both North and South, with a great diorama depicting the battle. Also noted were portraits of two female spies – one Union, one Confederate. We then stopped at the nearby Coca-Cola Museum where the first Coca Cola was bottled in 1894! Exhibited were a lot of Coke memorabilia including trays and other knick-knacks.
On Friday (15) we had a memorable trip to the Vicksburg National Military Park, operated by the National Park Service. More than 63,000 Confederate and Union soldiers are buried in the park, with appropriate ceremonies for each during the year. There is a replica af the USS Cairo, the first ironclad gunboat sunk by Confederate forces at Vicksburg.
Natchez
Next stop was Natchez on Saturday (16) with an eye-opening “Cotton & Music” tour to the Tanner Frogmore Plantation and Cotton Gin in nearby Ferriday, La. Owner Lynette Tanner gave us a great tour of the property, starting with a working model of the first cotton gin, patented by Eli Whitney in 1853.When the new electric gins are down, it still can separate cotton seeds from cotton bolls before the cotton is packed into average 490-pound bales for shipping.
Lynette is the fifth generation of the family that has operated the plantation over the past 50 years, and it still turns a nice profit every year. She gave us a tour, with a stop to hear some lovely gospel ballads by a local schoolteacher, who provided a lovely interlude on our visit.
Lynette also edited and contributed to an enlightening book, Chained to the Land: Voices from Cotton & Cane Plantations. Over 15 years, she and her staff researched the stories of more than 200 slaves who worked on plantations throughout the state, editing their comments, and dedicated the book to her late mother.
St. Francisville
On Sunday (17), we visited the Audubon State Historic Site operated by the Louisiana State Parks. A knowledgeable park ranger took us through stately Oakley House built around 1806. In 1830, notable birder John James Audubon stayed at the house for almost four months, tutoring the owner’s young daughter. During this time, he completed sketches for more than 30 of the 127 birds in his “Birds of America” compendium. Examples of many of his sketches can be seen on the walls during the mansion tour. The owner still resides there, so his rooms are private.
The site includes a Welcome Center and two slave cabins, giving a glimpse into the farm laborers’ way of life and impact on the development of early America from 1790 to 1830.
Baton Rouge
The state capitol on Monday (18) offered a bus tour that passed some of the 17 colleges and universities, including LSU, Xavier and Louisiana State College. The only tour disappointment on the trip was our anticipated Cajun Pride Swamp Adventure boat ride in the Manchac Swamp – sidelined when a tire blew on the bus enroute to the site, about 40 minutes from the boat. It took an hour for a repair truck to change the tire, and then it was too late to get to the tour site as the captain had ended his day. We then learned the swamp was haunted – probably why we had that very flat tire!
Houmas House Landing
On Tuesday (19), we were able to walk from the boat to Houmas House, known as the “Sugar Palace.” Both it and the extensive grounds were purchased by Australian John Burnside in 1858 for $1 million. He grew cotton, tobacco, sugar and corn, making it a profitable investment. The mansion’s 16 rooms are preserved, with many of the original furnishings, art and memorabilia. We walked through the beautiful gardens as well.
New Orleans
We said goodbye to our ship and fellow passengers as we had booked two days in our third favorite city that we had not been to since the early ‘90s. It was our culinary delight as we were able to return to some of our favorite restaurants.
We visited the new Museum of Southern Jewish Experience, opened here this past May after its original launch at the Henry Jacobs Camp in Utica, Miss. Our knowledgeable volunteer guide helped us navigate the Jewish memorabilia, artifacts, and artwork throughout the three museum rooms. Gallery 1 highlighted “From Immigrants to Southerners,” followed by Gallery 2: Fiel Family Atrium, presenting “Foundations of Judaism;” and then Gallery 3 showcasing “The 20th Century & Beyond.” One notable exhibit was a life-size rendition of a seated Ruth Bader Ginsburg that has been on the two Jewish Krewe Mardi Gras floats.
We also returned to the historic Audubon Zoo, opened in 1885 and still dedicated to protect and preserve its 3,000-plus animals and birds, and to educate the public on their vital importance.
Our culinary tour included The Court of Two Sisters, shaded by wisteria vines, whose original building was the residence of the second royal governor of New Orleans, operated as a restaurant by the same Fein family the past 50 years.
Our first dinner was at Commander’s Palace, originally a truly grand estate, with its stunning chandeliers, artwork and etched wall coverings. Our last dinner was at Antoine’s, across the street from our hotel, with excellent cuisine but a bit disappointing in the lack of artwork and wall coverings.
Before our return to Tampa, we had a memorable visit to the historic Café Du Monde on the waterfront where mule-drawn carriages take visitors on a downtown tour. A breakfast of the Café’s noted beignets and café au lait was a lovely end to a truly great trip on the Mississippi.
[Editor’s Note: Special thanks to Julie Kean, USA River Cruises, American Cruise Lines staff & crew, and all our knowledgeable guides.]
Steve Traiman is President of Creative Copy by Steve Traiman in St. Pete Beach, offering freelance business writing services. He can be reached via email at traimancreativecopy@gmail.com