There are countless eateries on the waterfront, but few match the ambience of downtown’s popular 400 Beach. Not only does dining alfresco come with a stunning view of Tampa Bay, but it’s an exceptional value in the evolving downtown culinary scene.
Much of the restaurant’s success has to do with female Executive Chef Ana Granucci-Davis, 29, a talented culinarian leading the charge while managing as a single mother with two children under the age of two.
It’s true that women in our society were always expected to cook. Yet, according to the U.S. Labor Department only about 20 percent of professional chefs are women. Why is this? According to Ana, the work is both mentally and physically hard, including long hours. But her passion is ongoing, and her drive is sustained by the support of Corporate Chef Tyson Grant who oversees the successful gotoSTEVES.com restaurants along with owner Steve Westphal.
“It helps,” says Ana, “that whenever I have a question — or a problem — he’s there for support. I can’t believe how Tyson believes in me!” And now, more than ever, that belief extends to those patronizing the busy eatery. Women have long fought discrimination in restaurant kitchens, but Ana has crossed that barrier and is making a name for herself as one of the best in Tampa Bay. For sure, 400 Beach is not the best location on Beach Drive. In fact, it’s situated at the end of a long row of restaurants just adjacent to The Vinoy Renaissance Resort. In my opinion, however, it affords one most picturesque waterfront view besides offering one of the best values on the strip.
A funky beach decor makes dining fun and adds to the carefree experience. There’s plenty of seating for large parties and special occasions. Service is fast, efficient and friendly.
Not in the mood for a full meal? Linger with a Raspberry Cosmomosa, or Sunset Martini, and a few light appetizers like the coconut gingered mussels with lemongrass, the Hoisin glazed ribs or blackened fish tacos.
Few of the competition can top Ana’s Early Specials, a $28 menu for two which is served weekdays only 3 – 6 pm. The three-course special includes your choice of appetizer, a full sized entree, and mini dessert. It’s concurrent with Happy Hour that features half off on all house wines, draft beers and well drinks.
A wines-by-the-glass list is exceptional, offering everything from an earthy Santa Margherita Alto Adige Pinot Grigio, to a smooth and fruity DomaineChandon Pinot Noir. Prices are more than reasonable, not the typically ridiculous $10-12 a glass you’ll find along most of Beach Drive.
An innovative variety of appetizers include mango Ceviche, Lobster Mac and Cheese, coconut ginger mussels with lemongrass, Hoison glazed ribs, even a loaded up “Beach Boat” where you choose a trio of appetizers. There’s fresh oysters and six salads, my favorites being the wedge with copious bleu cheese and bacon, and the sumptuous seafood Louis with a chili lemon dressing.
The menu is inclusive but not extensive. If there is one and only one dish you must try, it’s the Florida Grouper Oscar. Most are aware how the price of this savory fish has escalated over the years, but this Grouper entree is worth every “market price” cent, and it is one of the best versions I’ve tasted.
The presentation is perfect: Jumbo chunks of luscious lump crab cap a generous snow-white portion of fresh grouper. It’s presented with tiny cubed potatoes, thin roasted asparagus, a drizzling of tomato coulis, and golden hollandaise. A beaut of a dish!
In the “Seafood, Steaks & More” category, there’s a non-greasy ale-battered haddock, a three-cheese Lobster Mac & Cheese (my granddaughter Haley tells me she is still dreaming about it), miso-glazed salmon with fresh veggies, an all-natural grilled chicken done with a zesty lemon beurre blanc, sundried tomatoes, sautéed spinach and fresh mashed potatoes. Carnivores should give the 12-ounce Niman Ranch a try with its shallot butter, garlic mashed and crispy onions.
On Sundays there’s an admirably priced buffet 10 am – 3 pm Get there early! Alaskan king crab and boiled shrimp are piled to the hilt, but there’s also a roast beef carve, Benedicts, and $4 Mimosas or Bloody Marys to go with.
Indeed, waterfront views and balmy breezes improve every aspect of your meal, but quality ingredients and perfect seasoning help fashion that perfect day in Paradise.
(400 Beach is located at 400 Beach Drive, St. Petersburg, Florida 33701. Call 727-896-2400 for reservations).
(Joyce LaFray reviews anonymously and pays for her own meals.)
ABOUT CHEF ANA
Ana Granucci-Davis, the daughter of restaurant owners, may have predicted that she would eventually end up on the culinary edge of life, but instead she decided to pursue a Bachelors degree in Music at the University of South Florida.
Somewhere between her schooling, which included a stint at the Art Institute of Tampa, Ana decided to infuse her love of arts into creating artistic cuisine. Her father was Italian, her mom was German and Swedish, and according to Ana there were some mighty good family meals as she was growing up. She credits her mom as her greatest influence, a role model who created quality dishes without all the fuss and fusion of modern day cuisine.
Ana has some gravitas behind her young years, having worked at Bella Brava and several other local venues. She paid her dues working behind the scenes and learning from a number of talented chefs.
For many females, working the “heat” in the kitchen is not an easy task, both physically and mentally. Perhaps, says Ana, that’s why there are not so many female chefs. Yet, she’s been able to juggle the tasks of being a single mom while taking care of two youngsters, Audrey, two years and Andrew, just six months. Tragically, her husband Chef Aaron Andrew Davis of the Kitchen, downtown, was struck and killed by an auto before the birth of Andrew. She has handled this misfortune with remarkable composure.
Ask her who’s her favorite chef and she’ll immediately tell you Alice Waters, then add a few others like the famous Thomas Keller and roadster Anthony Bourdain.
Her secrets to success? Sourcing as many local ingredients as possible and personally inspecting all incoming orders. Ana’s advice to fledgling female chefs, “Never give up. Try to find your niche, and most of all don’t settle!”